Using Happy Grazers
Slow Feeders
Our feeders hold up to 2 full bales per feeder (average-sized 2-cord bales). No more having to get up early, if you don’t want to because you “have to feed the horses”. No more having to leave your friends to be home by a certain time because “I have to feed the horses”. You can set a worry-free feeding schedule that meets your individual and equine needs.
Happy-Grazer’s uniquely designed legs keep the feeder and the hay off the ground out of the mud and dust and sand. However, the legs can be shortened, or completely removed to accommodate the individual size and needs of your grazer.
How Horses Eat With Happy Grazers Feeders
Happy Grazers are designed to mimic natural healthy grazing habits in horses. This is achieved by the use of specially designed nets that eliminate unnatural gulping and gorging. Happy Grazers also reduce boredom and developed stereotypes such as cribbing, pacing, biting, and depression in stalled horses because they can naturally graze on that same amount of food naturally, safely, and longer. Happy Grazers make happy healthy horses and happy, worry-free owners who are not wasting money and time by hay tossed on the ground and dirtied that must be cleaned up and thrown away.
Happy Grazers Replacement Net Instructions
A few things to note before installing your replacement net.
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The new net is longer in length than the original version. This was done to accommodate the shrinkage of the net. With the extra netting, the net needs to be installed a specific way; the net needs to be flat against all of the sides of the feeder (slow feeder and corner feeder) and have extra netting bunched in the corners. When the net is sewn in this way, it allows the horse to be able to have access to the hay in the corners of your feeder even after the net shrinks.
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The first-generation slow feeders had holes near the top lip of the feeder. When installing your replacement net in a first-generation feeder, make sure to thread the black cord in at least eight meshes up from the bottom of the net. This will prevent the top of the net from lying on the ground when you have the net open. Your horse can easily get caught in the cord if the net is lying on the ground.
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New-generation slow feeders have holes near the middle of the feeder. When installing your replacement net in a new generation feeder, make sure to thread the black cord in at least four meshes up from the bottom of the net.
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The corner feeders should have the black cord sewn at least four meshes up from the bottom of the net. When installing a new net in your corner feeder, make sure to have the slip knot toward the corner side of the feeder.
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Instructions
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**Our replacement nets come in two sizes; 76mm and 86mm. When sewing in the 76mm net, thread the net into the feeder every 2-3 meshes. When sewing in the 86mm net, thread the net into the feeder every 1-2 meshes.
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Place the replacement net over the edges of the feeder so that the yellow cord is hanging on the outside of the feeder and the bottom of the net is on the inside of the feeder. Position the net so that the opening with the slip knot is in the center of the feeder. Pull the net tight on the flat surfaces of the feeder and have extra netting bunched in the corners. Zip ties (not included) may be used to keep the net in place while installing.
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Start threading the black cord into the feeder and through the net starting from the outside and into the center hole of the feeder, where the opening and slip knot should be located. Tie a knot into the black cord near the end of the rope. Make sure to tie the knot so that it the knot is on the outside of the feeder.
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Continue weaving the black cord in and out of the feeder and net; making sure that the net is sewn in as tight to the feeder as possible (every 1-3 meshes; see above **). If the net is loose, your horse will be able to create a gap between the net and feeder and will be able to eat more hay than is intended.
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Once you reach the corners, bunch up the net and thread the cord through multiple meshes of the bunched-up net before weaving the cord back into the feeder. The net was designed to be bunched up in every corner of your feeder (see notes).
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Once you have sewn in the bunched-up net into the corner of your feeder, continue to sew in the remainder of the net into the feeder using steps 3 and 4.
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Once you have sewn in the remainder of the net and before you tie a knot in the other side of the black cord, go back around (starting from where you first threaded in the black cord) and pull the black cord as tight as possible.
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Once you have the black cord woven in as tightly as possible, you can then tie a knot or two on the other end of the black cord (making sure the knot is on the outside of the feeder and as close to the feeder as possible).
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Cinch up the yellow cord and check for gaps where you weaved the cord into the net and feeder. If you have any gaps, you will need to un-thread the rope and fix the gaps by re-threading the cord into the feeder. This will happen if you skip too many meshes when you are sewing in your net.